CAMPUHAN RIDGE WALK – Ubud SightSeeing

CAMPUHAN RIDGE WALK

Me At Campuhan Bridge Walk

Bali has two major natural offerings – beaches and greenery. While the former are best experienced at Kuta and Nusa Dua, the latter is present in superlative measures at Ubud. And in Ubud, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better place than Campuhan Ridge walk for the same.

What it is: A walk across the rice paddies, Balinese traditional villages, taking in a few art galleries, culture and cafes along the way. Soak in the sights. They’re gorgeous. There are many art cafes with some lovely little paintings you can pick up (bargain!). A great walk for fitness, views or viewing the local artists. Takes about 90 minutes at a brisk pace or hours if viewing all the art on display. Miles and miles of rice fields. You’ll see their unique irrigation and step farming as well as tons of trees.

Anyway, so here are the directions to Campuhan ridge walk:

Let’s use the Ubud market as our starting point. Walk West (or as you exit the market onto the main road, Jalan Ubud Raya, you go left) towards Penestanan/the bridge/Bintang supermarket.

Before the bridge, on your right, you will see a sign for IBAH Hotel. This will be before the clinic and after the turning to Sari Organic if you know where that is.

the turn to get to Campuhan ridge 550x366 Campuhan ridge hike   Ubud, Bali photo

Turn right at that sign as if you’re going to the hotel (North of the main road if your looking at the map). To the left you will see a road that goes downhill. Drive down and park 50m down at the school, can’t go any further with a moped. Continue reading

Naughty Nuri’s Warung UBUD RESTAURANT

Naughty Nuri’s Warung

Kedai BBQ, Warung Steak, dan Restoran Meksiko
Jalan Raya Sanggingan, Ubud, Bali
Often shrouded in the smoke that emanates from its roadside grill, it’s easy to miss Naughty Nuri’s Warung in Ubud, Bali, famed for its barbecued pork ribs and killer martinis.
Once past the smoke, the restaurant – which has long been a staple of the Bali food scene – looks like a wooden shack, complete with a corrugated roof and seating that extends out to the road. But that’s about as far as Naughty Nuri’s goes to imitating a traditional Balinese warung, or roadside stall.
Inside, the restaurant walls are so dotted with framed photos, posters and odd knick-knacks that one nearly misses the presence of a bar in the corner. Amongst the photos of the owners and their regulars is a picture with the words “Eat, Pay, Leave,” a cheeky take on the best-selling memoir by Elizabeth Gilbert, Eat, Pray, Love, a self-realization novel that partly takes place in Ubud and has been said to have boosted tourism to the area. The poster is indicative of the feel of the restaurant: laid back and tongue-in-cheek; and decorated like something out of a ‘60s diner in the United States – visually exciting, colorful and homely at the same time.
Naughty Nuris Logo Restaurant
The clashing Indonesian and American styles are no doubt a reflection of Naughty Nuri’s owners: Isnuri Suryatmi, a Javanese woman after whom the warung was named, and her husband, Brian Aldinger, a New Yorker easily recognizable from the photos and usually mingling among the clientele on any given night.The couple opened the restaurant in Bali, Indonesia’s most popular tourist destination, in 1995 after Ms. Suryatmi, who Mr. Aldinger calls “Nuri,” professed her love for cooking. Many years on, it’s obvious the couple are doing something right — they’ve since added another location in Batubelig, as well as a Mexican spinoff called Nacho Mama down the road from the outlet in Ubud.

Naughty Nuri’s has done incredibly well to stand out from the thousands of roadside warungs and more expensive eateries in Bali, including numerous write-ups in popular guidebooks and mainstream media.

The modest restaurant has become so popular that its clientele, comprising mostly tourists, have made Naughty Nuri’s a must-stop during their travels through the artist town of Ubud, about a 1.5 hour drive from the tourist hotspot of Kuta.

Part of Naughty Nuri’s appeal is its barbecued ribs. The restaurant owns but one grill, outside on the street. For the number of customers it serves a day, the grill is surprisingly small, only slightly bigger than the large metal basin of barbecue sauce next to it, in which the ribs are dunked. The ribs are then served without frills, save for a slice of lime.

While this might look oddly minimalist at first, it is soon obvious why–the generous slab of ribs doesn’t need the accompanying cabbage or tomato garnish; it can hold its own. The ribs are tender and juicy and the sauce is a clear winner — at once both sweet and peppery. Whether the ribs can stand up to standards set by more established barbecue restaurants around the world is unlikely, but it hits a sweet spot for those who want a little Western cuisine to mix up the typical Balinese diet of rice and noodles.

But perhaps the star of the show and possibly the “naughtiest” thing on the menu is the martini. No less than American celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain has vouched for the Naughty Nuri’s versions, calling them “the best martinis in the world” in the Naughty Nuri’s guestbook.

The martinis, which are shaken in front of guests, are ice cold and pack a serious punch. They are so strong that “persons naughty enough to drink 4 or more per visit will be inducted to the ‘Naughty Drinkers Hall of Infamy,’” according to Naughty Nuri’s website.

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BABI GULING BU OKA (Suckling Pig Restaurant in Ubud)

BABI GULING BU OKA

The Bali-style babi guling (roast pig) served at Warung Ibu Oka is most famous for Anthony Bourdain’s loving coverage of the restaurant and its product. While Bourdain has moved on in his affections (lechon from the Philippines has now taken first place in his lard-encrusted heart), Ibu Oka’s babi guling still exerts a spell over the visitors who swarm to Jalan Raya in Ubud, Bali, taking time out of their schedule exploring Ubud’s shopping, dining, and sightseeing to follow in Bourdain’s footsteps.
Babi Guling Bu Oka
Jl. Tegal Sari No. 2 Ubud, Ubud
Branches
(0361) 976345 / (0361) 2077490
Mon – Sun 10:00 – 17:00
Rp.30.001 – Rp.50.000
Babi Guling Bu Oka Menu  Babi Guling Bu Oka Menu Babi Guling Bu Oka Menu
Warung Ibu Oka is set in a small, open-air space opposite the Ubud Royal Palace. On the southern end of the space stands the kitchen area, while the rest of the space is reserved for diners: a raised platform with low tables allows diners to enjoy their meal sitting on the floor, while the lower part features round tables with plastic chairs and umbrellas.
The place is open for only four hours a day – starting at 11am, when the first of six whole roast pigs makes its way to the premises atop a motorcycle. Ibu Oka stays open until the last pig is chopped up and served to their hungry patrons.
Make no mistake, Ibu Oka serves Bali babi guling and only babi guling: chopped up and served on paper plates, these heavenly pieces of pork are best enjoyed in combination with boiled white rice, spicy vegetables, and blood sausage.
The complete meal described above is known as babi guling spesial (“special roast pork”, IDR 30,000), and offers the best parts of the pig: a square of crisp skin tops the slab of fatty pork meat you get with the dish, and the steaming hot rice is balanced out by the slice of blood sausage and helping of spiced vegetables beside it on the plate.

Babi Guling: the Star of the Show

It’s not a pretty sight, if you’re used to neat servings of Western food, but it’s Balinese soul food exemplified: a substantial rice and meat meal with accents of spices and grease. The contrasts play in your mouth like a melodious gamelan orchestra: the crunch of the crackling plus the softness of the rice, the granular texture of the blood sausage versus the buttery softness of the fatty pork meat.
The roast pork is cooked away from the restaurant location; to make babi guling, whole pig carcasses are stuffed with various herbs and spices according to a secret family recipe: components likely include galangal, lemongrass, shallots, and garlic. After stuffing, the carcass is roasted on a skewer, turning slowly over a fire for several hours until the skin turns a rich, deep brown.
The crisp, savory skin is especially prized by babi guling eaters, but the tender, seasoned meat is what gives babi guling its heft: having absorbed the secret spices during the cooking process, the meat tastes delicate and practically melts in your mouth.

A Family Affair

Ibu Oka only opened for business in 2000, but the product has a long and storied lineage: the food blog A Girl Has to Eat interviewed Agun, a cousin of the restaurant’s namesake Ibu Oka, who confided that the business began in his father’s time.
Their family had been preparing babi guling for the Ubud royal family: given leave to sell their delicious product to Balinese commoners, the family set up a stall in the market, which eventually led to the restaurant in this prime area of Ubud.
The family still prepares babi guling in the traditional way, starting at the crack of dawn by slaughtering the pigs to be served. “The roasting takes place next to Agun’s house and about six pigs are roasted each day, more on festival days and on other important occasions,” the blogger explains. “It’s the use of the time held tradition of roasting over wood that Agun says is what gives the suckling pig its intense flavor. The fire needs to be extremely hot to both sufficiently crisp the crackling and to ensure that the bones do not break as would happen over a lower heat.”
That’s an even bigger endorsement than anything that Anthony Bourdain could ever cook up: the reassurance that diners at Warung Ibu Oka experience an authentic, hand-crafted bit of Balinese culture that no Western influence has managed to ruin yet.
Warung Ibu OkaBranch 1: Jalan Tegal Sari 2, Ubud, Bali (Google Maps)
Branch 2: Jalan Raya Teges, Ubud, tel: +62 361 976 345